Fp4 Or Hp5 That Is The Question?

Di: Ava

I decided to go with FP4 and HP5, because have been using those films the last 5 years with success and because they might be much more resistent under those conditions (humidity, heat, x-ray) in comparison to the new Delta 100/400. Now my question: I usually develop both films in Microphen (1:1) 12 Minutes, but I heard good things Hi folks I just picked up some cheap bulk rolls of film, Ilford HP5 and FP4 and Agfa Copex HDP13 microfilm (same as Adox CMS 20). FP4 sucks in RO9 so I’m wondering what people have used with this film that works well and gives nice deep blacks. I’m guessing Ilford dev will be best, but which one – ID-11, Perceptol, Microphen, Ilfosol 3? Also, what would be best

PetaPixel - Ilford Marks Its 145th Year with Limited Edition Retro HP5 ...

First Impressions: An Ilford FP4 Review When I’m shooting black and white, it’s a different mindset from shooting in color. While I don’t think I

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Credit: emulsive.org Frequently Asked Questions Of Ilford Delta Vs Hp5 What Is The Difference Between Delta And Hp5? The main difference between Delta and HP5 is their suitability for different types of photography.

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Yes, a longer tonal range (i.r lower contrast) can be achieved by downrating. I typically rate Ilford HP5 at 160 ASA. As to the filter question, shoot a few frames both with and without filter on ths sam roll of film and develope. Then examine the negs and prints for any tonal differences. I did this with yellow, yellow-green and deep green filters. The differences can be The Retro Editions of ‪@Ilfordphoto‬ HP5 & FP4 films are here! While the film inside these cool packages is the same, we nonetheless took them out for some shooting around the lab.

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I’ve mostly been shooting hp5, bit today I picked up these
Reliable reciprocity data for Ilford FP4+
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I’ve only ever shot HP5 on my 5×4 camera and was looking to switch it up. I looked into foma 100 but don’t want a drop in image quality. What do you all prefer? Is fp4 a good shout and what chemistry do you use with it to get the best out of it? Times were 5min/5min A/B. HP5 isn’t the best film for N+, I know, thus this question is more focussed on FP4. Since part B uses the developer that is soaked into the film and modern emulsions are thin (not holding much developer), would it help to use a part A that is more concentrated? Would it help to use a stronger base in part B?

作为黑白胶卷，伊尔福是其中的老大哥，百年黑白说一不二，旗下现役的胶卷能够在某宝购买到九种型号，几乎是目前能买到的常用黑白胶卷型号最多的胶 Well, for one thing the TMAX and FP4/HP5 families are two different film technologies – FP4/HP5 are traditional „random“ grain films, where as the TMAX films are „T-grain“ (tabular) films, which have smaller, more evenly sized grains of silver in

Why does everyone love HP5?

Greetings, I hope I posted in correct space. I’m looking for ideas, suggestions, or solutions to help with my issue. A couple of years ago I bought what I thought (hoped?) would be my last printer because of my health and age. After researching and asking questions, I selected the HP Color LaserJet Pro M478f-9FP (Pro MFP M479FDW). It has been a great printer. I am

As of lately I keep seeing a lot of people dog on Tmax and praising HP5. I feel the complete opposite snd was wondering if there’s anyone else out there that also prefers Tmax over HP5. I think both stocks look better pushed in dev snd rated higher than box speed but straight out of the box and rated at the „recommended“ ISO, Tmax all day baby. For years I have used either D76 or ID-11, whichever was cheapest at the time of purchase. I want to get away from powder developers and was considering Rodinal as an alternative. If anyone is using FP4 Plus in Rodinal for darkroom printing, which dilution do you think works best? 1+25 or 1+50

I’m not new to D23, but it was a long time ago. Recently I tried divided D23 (w/ Thornton’s formula) and HP5. The negatives and proofs look good, but a little short on contrast. Times were 5min/5min A/B. HP5 isn’t the best film for N+, I know, thus this question is more focussed on FP4. I have bounced around to other stocks, shooting mostly T-Max 100 in 120, but recently returned to buying Ilford FP4 in 120 and HP5 in 35. I kind of got tired of the lack of grain in T-max 100, and have never been a fan of Tri-X for some reason.

I want to start developing with pyro. I am currently using 4×5 with FP4 and Fomapan 100. Will probaby open the repertoire to HP5 and that will be it at least for some time until I get a better feel for film again. Sorry if this has been done to death here, but there is so much info on pyro that it is difficult to filter out. I am not a novice in the darkroom and have some experience Funny you should post this today. Just last night, I found myself short of DD-X and scrambled to Digital Truth for 1:9 times (instead of 1:4 as I typically use). I recall seeing HP5+ (ISO 400) = 15.75 min at 68F. I adjusted that for temperature (18.5 min at 66F) and negs turned out fine upon cursory review. Will inspect and print them later this week, but hope that helps provide at

Also, does fp4 and hp5 lack something in the highlight range? I’m pretty new to ilford films, recently switched from tri-x 400 and acros to hp5 and fp4, to support ilford. I know that hp5 is not a fine grain film, but I wasn’t aware of it being more prone Typical 400 ISO black and white films are pleasantly surprising due to their exposure of latitude and their ability to retain the information in the highlights and with HP5 that is no exception. We bracketed HP5, changing only the exposure settings, and we were delighted at how well HP5 plays! It retained the information and detail in the highlights, even at 4 stops HP5 is the most forgiving film I’ve ever shot. Anywhere from 200 to 6400, it will return a usable image. Grain is less pronounced than Tri-X, and has a little more contrast. Delta 3200 is only good for images that you want to look extremely gritty. Popcorn grain. No experience with FP4; I mostly shoot available light, so I don’t fuck with slow film much.

It doesn’t like it so much even a week old. Developing Tmax films in oxidized developer looks a lot like your description — base fog, low contrast, streaks, magnified grain, etc. Films with manufactured grain are more sensitive to processing variations than the more old-fashioned films such as Tri-X, FP4 or HP5+. All times are GMT. The time now is .Reliable reciprocity data for Ilford FP4+ Monochrome Film My solution to this dilemma – needing drastically different exposure indices and levels of detail over a short period – has been to carry two bodies. One has FP4 or Kentmere 100, the other has HP5 at 800-1600. This may or may not be a practical approach for you. Regardless, the best solution is to dive in and see what works best for you. I find that these infinite loop

OKay, so I understand that this question has probably been asked many many times before but I have searched and haven’t found what i’m looking for. So here is my question: To dilute or not to dilute D76? What are the pros and cons of doing either one? I use Kodak Tri-X Pro 400 ASA and Ilford HP5+

HP5+ is just as good a film, with some slight differences that give it its own character. So, in answer to your question, in my opinion FP4+ pairs up perfectly with Tri-X (or HP5+). I think this look really good! Can I ask a quick question, how does the base colour/density compare to Delta 100? I would say it’s very slightly denser and exactly the same color. I don’t have a side by side photo with Delta 100 at hand, but here is the Kentmere next to Delta 400 — please

FP4: 7x11in, 7x17in, 10x12in, 8in by 100ft, 8x16in, 18x24cm. HP5: 2.25×3.25in, 3.25×4.25in, 5x12in, 6.5x9cm, 14x17in and 20x24in. This is not an

I guess my other question is will hp5 go up to 40 x 50 to the same quality as fp4. The only place I have to go on the fp4 is slower shutter speeds, and I can push the film to 200 (not sure how much quality I would loose by pushing to 200), I guess my other question is if a horse moves 1/30 or 1/125 will not matter or will it?

This question is not strictly Leica, but as Leica is inextricably linked to B&W film there is some association.

I am about to make a foray into B&W and had selected the above four films as those I would most likely use.

Is there much difference between Plus X

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